Updated: May 18, 2021
Race report #1, 4.30am 7 October 2020
By: Mike Roy
The 2020 Freedom Challenge, originally scheduled for June, finally kicks off this morning, Wednesday 7 October here in Pietermaritzburg. The first batch of RASA (“the Race Across South Africa”, for the uninitiated) starts at the City Hall at the normal starting time of 6am. It is a minor miracle that Chris and Julia Fisher have managed to get a 2020 FC off the ground, given the bizarre consequences of a COVID riddled year.
This is the 17th edition of the marque event of the Freedom Challenge, an unbroken sequence that started in 2004 with three riders, the founder of the race Dave Waddilove, Dave’s brother Rob and Andrew King. Little could this trio have imagined back then the place this event would take amongst the elite endurance events of any sport. They were the pioneers, the equivalent of the first guys to run the Comrades or Ian Player when he did the first Dusi. Hall of Fame material.
To date 275 people have earned themselves a coveted Basutho blanket (there is no prize money whatsoever) by finishing the 2150km race within the 26 day limit. Many more have failed. The race is challenging, particularly when held in the middle of winter, as is the norm. This year’s event is being held in early summer and the jury is out as to whether conditions will be easier or more difficult. More of that later.
RASA normally has a field of 40 to 50 riders. Last year 47 started, with 42 finishers. It is understandably a smaller field this year, given the uncertainty over whether any event was going to be held at all because of COVID. Over the next five days 23 riders will start RASA. Our thoughts are with the many riders (I think in particular of my brother Gordon in the UK) who wanted to ride FC 2020 but cannot because of COVID consequences. Hopefully there will be future opportunities for all of you.
In amongst the 2020 starters are some multiple blanket wearers, including Tim James who will be aiming for his 9th blanket. I’ll have a more detailed look at the race podium contenders in a few days, the anticipated front runners are only starting on Sunday. Suffice to say the names of Tim James, Alex Harris (both multiple winners of the event), Mike Woolnough and Arno Crouse are all in contention. Former winner Janine Stewart is surely the favorite to win the women’s race. As always will Martin Dreyer’s phenomenal record of 10 days, 6 hours and 40 minutes be broken?
Last year the daily race report duties were shared by Ingrid Avidon, Steve Burnett and myself, albeit we were compiling our reports remotely, which had some limitations. This year Ingrid is riding the shorter Race to Rhodes event with her husband Anthony, and I will be doing the race report on route as part of the Race Office. Hopefully I can rope in one or two guest scribes along the way to take charge of a day or two. I’m thinking of Kevin Davie in particular.
Back to the summer versus winter debate. The pros seem fairly obvious. More daylight (around two and a half hours every day) and warmer temperatures, thereby avoiding the bitter cold that is normally part of every FC. The cons also include warmer temperatures (too warm) (the Umkomaas Valley on Thursday could be interesting at the predicted 33 deg C, as could the Groot Karoo later in the race) and the presence of snakes, ticks and other creatures that are absent in winter. Black mambas apparently rule the trails of the Umkomaas valley during the summer, thereby potentially offering additional standoff opportunities to the buffalo of the Baviaanskloof. However, chatting to 7 blankets holder Marnitz Nienaber earlier today, the biggest “new” summer problem will the wind. It’s October, the wind traditionally howls at this time of the year and it unfortunately howls in the wrong direction. Over the next month we will see how it all pans out. Marnitz did also comment that it is a lot greener and therefor more scenic at this time of the year, so something to look forward to for those who can raise their eyes above the handlebars.
Scanning through the RASA batch starting today I note the name of John Bowen. John is searching for his first blanket, after two valiant but unsuccessful previous attempts in 2015 and I think 2017. Having ridden with John in 2015 (equally unsuccessful), I know firsthand how much that blanket will mean to him and to others like him who will be battling to beat the 26 day challenge. John will not be “touring”. He will be drawing on everything he has and I look forward to seeing him don his blanket in Wellington. I might just shed a tear. It is that kind of race, emotions are never far away. Those who have done it will know what I am referring to.
John’s bother-in-law was the late Johan Rissik, former race director and legendary good Samaritan with his coffee and treats stand 10km or so before Prince Albert, which was a fabulous service for us, especially after a 150km ride from Willowmore. John is carrying a token or two with him on this year’s ride in memory of Johan, a poignant moment coming up I suspect when he reaches that coffee spot in a couple of weeks.
Three other RASA riders start today, Brad vd Westhuizen and his wife Nicki Nairn. Brad and Nicki got married a week ago, and this is their honeymoon ride. Brad will be going for his fourth blanket, Nicki her first, although she has done many of the shorter versions of FC events. Making up the batch is Ernst Behrens, who is riding his first FC. Ernst was the quietest guy at the race briefing last night, a very wise policy. Let the bike do the talking tomorrow.
The race briefing last night was also the first time I have met Chris and Julia Fisher, in whose hands the race now rests. Each of the race directors I seen in action have had their different style. Dave Waddilove, Glenn Harrison and Johan Rissik are the others, each stamping or weaving their own personality on the event. Chris is more in the Dave Waddilove camp, a lighter approach, although in line with the original ethos of FC, rightly protective of the integrity of the event, which to me is all about exceptionally high ethical standards, in particular towards fellow competitors, the support station hosts and the communities and environment through which one rides. The golden rules were once again outlined at last night’s race briefing. When “no fires” came up I felt a twinge of guilt, memories of the 2015 ride surfacing. That’s a story for later perhaps. Simple rules: “if you are unsure, close the gates” (this is mainly farming country), “don’t abuse the hosts” (there have been one or two unpleasant incidents in the past, hosts are like hen’s teeth, look after them), “no GPS”, “get into a car and that’s your race over”.
I had a lekker chat with Ian Waddilove yesterday, Ian and his wife Dana own Allandale, the farm where the first support station is situated. They are legendary hosts, and Allandale is heaven after a brutal first day. Ian tells me the Umkomaas is very low so the river crossing option is definitely on for the next few days. This may not be the case by the weekend given the predicted heavy rains later this week. This could be another issue in the summertime, particularly in KZN, rain and muddy roads, not a MTBiker’s friend.
One thing has puzzled me for years. The exit from Allandale on the second day (if one overnights). The traditional route skirts a smallish (?) koppie and, on the other side joins a path that lines up directly with where one started at the farm. Begs the question, has anyone taken the tiger line up and over the koppie? I’d love to hear about it.
Joining the four RASA riders today are four cyclists who are doing the race to Rhodes, including Ingrid and Anthony Avidon, who we mentioned early. Ingrid has three FC blankets and I’ve heard she wants to make Rhodes in four days, which means I may need to get to Rhodes before she does in some haste. The other two RTR entrants are blanket holder Ben de Lange and Laura de Lange, his daughter. This will be Laura’s first FC event, she is a teacher at St Andrews in Grahamstown. She seems very chilled, “slowly up the hills and all will be right”. Laura’s sister was also scheduled to ride but had to pull out, the small matter of a doctorate thesis to attend to. Very special to see a father and child ride together, to the best of my knowledge this is the first father/daughter combo any FC event has seen.
The RASA race narrative (remember GPSs are forbidden, maps and compasses only) traditionally include some interesting snippets on local history, the product of Dave Waddilove’s research all those years back. I suspect these inserts haven’t been updated for a very long time, so while I amble across South Africa I’m going to do my level best to colour the daily report with vignettes, as and when they occur, of our experiences of this magnificent country of ours.
Actually it is “we”, not “I”. I have a wingman, an old school buddy John Deane, from Winterskloof who is accompanying me in my clapped out old 4X4. John is a geologist and cannot wait to share his observations of geological minutia as we bumble southwest towards Wellington. The current narrative, page 13 of 32, speaks as follows: “as you start dropping down into the Naudesnek switchbacks, stop to look at the rock in the road cuttings. It is black basalt with white quartz flecks in it…”. John will be checking and expanding on this. With a bit of luck he will spot some anomaly which may lead to a feasible mining opportunity, thereby boosting the Freedom Challenge endowment fund.
It is time. Dot-watchers are emerging from a long hiatus. Let the games begin
Race report #2 10:00 Thursday 7 October 2020
The first two batches are on the road. Batch 2, seven in total, started a few hours back and I’m still trying to come with terms with the fact that four of them are running all the way to Rhodes. They checked the rules which didn’t mention anything about having to have a bike so here they are. Same conditions, same time limits as the cyclists. 480km in 7 days, 10750m of ascent. Give me a few paragraphs to digest this.
The eight riders that set off yesterday morning, Batch 1, four heading for Rhodes and four to Wellington, had varying fortunes during the day (and night for that matter). In this group are effectively three “couples” and two singles. Two husband and wife teams and one father and daughter team, Ben and Laura. I’ll start with the latter pair, seems like they had a decent enough day and made Allandale comfortably before dark.
We (John Deane and I) took a speculative drive down to the south side of the Umkomaas to the point where the easiest place is to swim your bike, hoping to get a glimpse of some of the riders. It is truly a very special place to park a car and switch off the engine. No sooner had we parked when the de Langes appeared on the opposite bank and started to wade over. There was plenty of spectator value when Laura’s water bottle went for a swim, a problem which she only realized when it was 50m downstream and heading towards the faster water through the gnarly rocky section further on. All bets were on in her efforts to retrieve the bottle before it was too late. Thankfully she managed just fine and we had a pleasant chat with the two of them before they headed up Hella Hella. Laura is well suited to this event, happy and not the slightest bit phased in the heat of the Umkomaas valley. A bit like her father.
The honeymoon couple, Brad and Nix, by all accounts had a decent day, rolling early into Allandale at 16:30 and electing to stay there for the night, a decision which makes a lot of sense in the circumstances. Ingrid and Anthony went through to Centacow, which was expected, but their day was not without challenges. Anthony, in his own words was stuffed earlier on, down at the Umkomaas I think. “I’m cramping badly. Can’t ride, can’t walk, can’t crawl” was his comment.
The couple dynamics at sharp end of the field are very different to those at the opposite end, the latter couples sharing one tracker per couple and clearly with no intention to ride apart. Ingrid and Anthony each have a tracker, so if one hesitates it is goodbye nurse, see you later, you are on your own. Thankfully Anthony got over his challenges and reunited with Ingrid for the ride to Centacow from Allandale.
The two singles of Batch 1, Ernst Behrens and John Bowen, had differing fortunes. Ernst had a very safe day, also getting to Allandale at 16:00, an excellent beginning for a RASA newcomer. John had a tough day, battling with tummy troubles after the soup at the Oaks in Byrne and cutting himself badly on his foot. With traditional John grit he limped through and made it to Allandale just before midnight. He has some interesting decisions to make today and a half day recovery ride to Centacow might be the wiser option. The days to Rhodes are particularly tough, and it is not impossible to make up lost days later in the race beyond Rhodes.
Which brings me to post offices. I have a number of, shall we say, eclectic interests, one of which is an obsession with South African postal history. To my astonishment I discovered what I think is a postal agency right down in the Umkomaas Valley, on the south side close to the point where riders wade across the river. To say this is an isolated place is an understatement, but there it was, well kept and doing what post offices do best. In fact I think it could be of interest to keep tabs on this theme during this trip across South Africa, vignettes of our postal history. After all, letters also take journeys. I’ll keep you posted (hahaha, I can hear my wife killing herself laughing (not)).
Mike Woolnough (starting Sunday) offered some insights into the physical conditions for this summer event, which made for interesting reading. “10 degrees warmer will get quite interesting. 18 degrees is a nice riding temp, 28 degrees not so nice. Performance drops as you go above 22 degrees. At 28 degrees your performance can drop off by almost 5%, more if you are prone to heat induced cramp (witness Anthony Avidon yesterday)”. Today the temperature is well above 30 degrees in the valley, should be fun.
Let’s have a look at the Batch 2 riders and runners, who are now well on their way as I write. Father and son team Ted Adams (71, the father) and Shaun Adams (38, the son, in case there is any confusion) are going all the way to Wellington. This combination have nailed this event before back in 2013, completing that RASA in just over 21 days. Sean is a doctor and almost there in becoming an ENT specialist. He has admitted to being a bit underdone for this event, but looks strong enough and in any event he has his Dad with him to pull him through. Incidentally Ted, if he gets his blanket, will become the oldest finisher, just pipping the current holder Philip Erasmus.
The other cyclist that left today is Andy Stuart, who is riding to Rhodes, twelve years after doing some recce rides on the trail. He understandably, and not unusually, looked a bit apprehensive last night and at the start. So far today he seems to be staying very close to Ted and Shaun, a pretty decent strategy.
I’ve had enough paragraphs to come to terms with the runners. There are four of them, three guys, one girl. Or is it three boys and one girl? They aren’t young so that doesn’t sound right. What is the “guys” word for “girl”, if any? “Woman” doesn’t sound right either. This is almost as confusing as the “oom” and “tannie” conundrum (do you? don’t you?) that riders (and runners) are going to face further down the trail, a dilemma that we can discuss in a week or so when the landscape and culture changes.
This same foursome tried the same event earlier this year in the March Race to Rhodes. Their effort came up short after an astonishing effort, they called it quits just after Malekgolanye, 110 km short of Rhodes. They learned plenty from that effort and are back to nail the beast. I gave one of them, Andy, a lift down to the start today (fair enough that the runners don’t have to run to the start from the B&B we all stay in the night before, like the riders have to do).
Andy shed some light on their strategy. For starters they will only have one hour sleep per day for the next 7 days. Think about that. Andy says day one is normally a bit rough, “smoothing the edges’. By day two the body and mind start to realise what their job is for the day (and night). By day three the sleep depravity kicks in and it is pure survival until the end. He described the feeling from day three onwards as being similar to a day after a heavy night out, trying valiantly to convince your spouse that you are 100% with the programme, whilst feeling anything but (just for the record, spouses, normally wives, don’t fall for one second for this, but they do applaud the effort). Falling asleep whilst on your feet (running, walking, whatever) is nothing unusual (actually it’s the same for riders).
Andy is an insurance guy, Pete is a civil engineer and knows intimately what the inside of a cardiologist’s consulting room looks like, healthy respect for what he has overcome. Dean is into banking, Nicky was with Telkom, now with some time on her hands to train. I guess we have all had varying experiences with teams in different facets of our personal lives. Some great, some awful. This R2R running team, that is what a team should look like, stands out a mile. Nobody will get left behind with these guys.
Quite how we got onto the topic I am not quite sure but I learned that Andy is obsessed with orchids. I know pretty well what “obsessed with something” means and believe me Andy is obsessed, so much so that he tested the team concept somewhat on their R2R attempt in March when he personally found 12 new orchids (for him) on their run. Given the need to photograph each one I suspect he may not have this latitude this time around. I hope he does, as I think “Orchids of South Africa”, along with “Postal History of South Africa” could make very complementary sub-themes in my daily reports.
The route on Freedom Challenge has evolved over the seventeen years of the race’s history. Makes me wonder if there is a record somewhere of the official routes, support stations and hosts from each of these years. This stuff needs to be preserved and celebrated. I’ll ask around and will report back, helping out if necessary if stuff needs to collected and archived. This is all in preparation for the 20th anniversary of the Freedom Challenge in three years, a wonderful opportunity to bring the Freedom Challenge community, past and present, together. Make sure to book early.
In subsequent reports I’ll go into a little detail on route changes for this year. It is absolutely fascinating to see the various routes or sneaks that have been explored, accepted or rejected over the years. Also interesting to see how the runners view it. What seems a poor choice for a cyclist (a steep portage) might be perfect for a runner? Think Hella Hella after swimming the river. Straight up to intersect the Hella Hella road looks a lot more doable without a bike on your shoulders.
That’s about enough to digest for today I think. Three more batches to go, the last starting on Sunday, the pointy end of the race.
Race report #3 15:00 Friday 8 October 2020
The Oaks, Byrne
By: Mike Roy
Day 3 of 2020 RASA and R2R, just the Saturday and Sunday batches to start. Nineteen competitors are out there so far, fifteen riders and four runners. Make that eighteen competitors. I’ve heard that Andy Stuart has had to withdraw from R2R somewhere between Allandale and Centacow, apparently his foot is buggered. Tough luck mate, please don’t take another twelve years before you come back again. Next year maybe.
John and I have left the FC race B&B in Pietermaritzburg and are sitting on the verandah at The Oaks Hotel, just outside the quirky settlement of Byrne. The Oaks serves as the halfway stop on the first day of FC. In the few years that they have been part of FC only one rider has slept over. I’ll try and find out what happened to whoever it was, a tough race ahead for anyone who only gets this far on the first day.
For many years the Minerva Tractor Museum up at the top of the mountain that drops down into Byrne, served as the first halfway stop. Minerva was named after a sailing ship of the same name that brought the original settlers from England on the infamous Byrne settlement scheme which ultimately led to the settlement of Byrne. The ship Minerva was wrecked off the Bluff outside Durban. An excerpt from a letter by Ellen McLeod, one of the survivors, reads as follows:
“scarcely anything will be saved… every box or trunk that has been washed up on the beach had been broken up by drunken sailors, and the contents ransacked – most awful work. The boat by the “Minerva” was the means of saving the majority of lives, as all that were landed by her must have been lost”
Minerva Tractor Museum was, to put it mildly, an eclectic place. Malcolm Anderson, the owner, accumulated a world class collection of old tractors, farming equipment, engines of every shape and size. Basically anything with an engine, preferably a diesel engine. Every so often Malcom would hold an open day during which he would fire up many of those old relics. I was lucky enough to be at one of those days. Twenty Lister pumps running at the same time sounds pretty cool, but when he fired up an old WWII Sherman tank engine the surrounding mountains would shudder. Terrific experience.
Sadly it all came to an end a few years back. Vossie, a chap who Malcolm had taken in off the streets many years back, who used to help his wife Vera serve toasted sandwiches and tea to years of FC riders as they came through, shot Malcolm morsdood and then took his own life. I have no idea why that happened, but Minerva closed, the contents have apparently all been shipped off to a similar museum at Baynesfield which riders would have passed very early on in the race on the same day. Very sad, it was a special place.
Batch 1 seem to be doing just fine. The Avidons are well placed to be in Rhodes in three days and some change, at this rate not very much change at all. There seems every likelihood that they will steam through Tinana and get to Vuvu later tonight. I wonder if they might look towards Lehana and give Rhodes a bash overnight, perhaps a sub three day R2R is on the cards? I’m sure they have an eye on an impending storm that is forecast. The top of the Drakensberg is no place to be when electric storms are about, and at this time of the year this is not uncommon.
The newlyweds, Brad and Nix, together with Ernst are having a blast. Early departures and early arrivals at each of the stations, just how it should be done if you are doing a day in a day. Ben and his daughter Laura are taking a bit longer each day but are on schedule for a six day R2R. John Bowen sliced his foot open on the first day and wisely has elected to take two days to get from Allandale to Ntsikeni. As I write he seems to be on track to achieve this. It has been interesting observing the race doctor guide John over WhatsApp in sorting out a pretty scary looking wound.
Batch 2 consists of cyclists and runners. As mentioned one cyclist, Andy Stuart, has withdrawn. The other two, father and son duo Ted and Shaun, made it to Allandale late last night and Ntsikeni seems doable, although again very late, for them tonight. Ted unfortunately lost his hearing aid when crossing the Umkomaas yesterday. Plans are afoot for a replacement. Chris Fisher says there is no race penalty for this.
The runners made Allandale in less than twenty four hours, an hour quicker than their time in March. At that point they were lying equal with the cyclists who had started with them early the previous day. Impressive to say the least. As we came in to The Oaks this afternoon we met an angular fellow who turned out to be another ultra trail runner, Niel Thiart. If it wasn’t for the fact that he had to be at a wedding at the Oaks he would have been running with the four runners doing R2R. Apparently he is buddy of Peter Purchase. Niel is shortly starting a run from Pretoria to Durban, 620km in ten days. Endurance boundaries are getting pushed harder and harder.
This morning four riders set off. The two brothers Rowan and Luke Matthews look like racing machines and so far today have lived up to that impression with a sub 24 hour Ntsikeni looking good. The only thing stopping that might be some trepidation in skirting the Friday night shebeens on the climb outside Centacow that can get a bit rowdy. Not far behind them are two equally strong riders, Grant Hill and Trevor Maarschalk. Grant is going for his third consecutive blanket and I have a feeling sub fifteen days is possible for Grant. Trevor is a lean looking fellow from the canoeing world (think Martin Dreyer) and is going for his first blanket.
Joining Grant Hill at the start today was his buddy (another) Grant Adams. Grant has been ravaged by Multiple Sclerosis, a proper disease that exposes every nerve to a world of excruciating pain, from which there is no recovery and very little escape. Grant Hill (well done bud) is riding to raise funds for his buddy, the medical expenses are through the roof. If any of you see fit to help out the banking details are as follows:
FNB 62743447311 MS Comrades Challenge Ref: name/RASA
Grant Adams joined today’s batch at the start in his electric wheelchair (basically an eBike) and the two Grants did the first km or two together, a pretty special moment.
I’m afraid to say I have zero to report on the postal history of the area we are in. I was banking on there being a post office or agency, past or present, in the tiny hamlet of Byrne but I couldn’t find anything, either physically or on the internet. I know this is going to disappoint many of you and I will do my level best to up my game in the weeks ahead. Please accept my humblest apologies. On a more encouraging note my wife tells me she did smile at my little postal joke yesterday, which made me feel a lot better.
Similarly I have nothing to report on the orchid front, but my news is dependent on any feedback from Orchid Man runner Andy, so feel free to shit on him for his slackness. I’ll also have a meaningful chat with him.
John Dean, my geologist wingman, has warmed up to his task and has brought along a reference book entitled “The Story of Earth & Life, a Southern African perspective on a 4.6 billion year journey”. I’m looking forward to John taking us through a geological master lesson as we journey south westwards. His only comment in the first 50km is “there is buggar all so far, other than some Drakensberg basalt cliffs down in the Umkomaas Valley, marking the breakup of Gondwanaland a few years back”. I’ll also put pressure on John to up his game, although in other aspects he has been an excellent wingman so far.
Once this report is done John and I are going up the hill to Minerva, where we are camping tonight and hoping to see tomorrow’s cyclists, including the Payne brothers, coming through. If we survive the ghosts of memories past and the echoes from long silent diesel engines, we will chat again tomorrow.
Race report #4 12:00 Saturday 9 October 2020
Cloud Mountain Backpackers near Byrne
Minerva is no longer, the new owner Michael Laws has changed the name to Cloud Mountain Backpackers after buying the seventy hectare estate earlier this year. Michael and his family picked the estate up for a song after it had lain derelict for four years following the tragedy involving the previous owner Malcom Anderson. I walked around in the old sheds in the mist very early this morning. There is absolutely nothing left of the old museum. Even the old train coaches are gone. Not quite everything. In a pile of rubble in the corner I did spot three battered old reel-to-reel tape decks from the 1960s, which must be fate intervening because I collect (amongst a few other things) reel-to-reel decks. Michael and I have come to an arrangement and my car will be a bit heavier when we leave. I couldn’t be happier.
Minerva/Cloud Mountain is still beautiful, very rustic and I do wonder whether in future years it might once again serve as the first interim support station, and I say this with no disrespect to The Oaks, where John and I (the Buffalo Herders, from now on) spent a very pleasant afternoon yesterday. Michael and his family have big plans for developing a hemp business in addition to the existing backpackers, so perhaps the allure of a tempting hemp cigar might be too much to resist for passing Freedom Challenge riders and runners. As an aside Michael is hoping to cultivate and market hemp microgreens, of which 20mg a day (fresh) will apparently give you your full 20 amino acids and all your Omega 3s and 6s. I bet you weren’t expecting that useful titbit today.
This morning Batch 4 started in PMB. We drove up to Cunningham Castle (the road is passable, albeit sketchy, confirming my memories are of a pretty ropey section) to watch them crest and then drop down to Cloud Mountain. The stretch they rode on the plateau above is spectacular, most of it forming part of the ground owned by Michael Laws. This morning it was cold and misty, ideal cycling weather.
Batch 4 consists of the Payne bothers, Nigel (3 RASAs) and Adrian (2 RASAs), Gary (3 RASAs) and Jeanette Scoular, Bruce Biccard and Jeanine Stewart (1 RASA) and Eddie Stafford. I assume Gary and Jeanette are a husband and wife team. I have no idea if Bruce and Jeanine are a couple or not but I did see them together earlier this morning looking as happy as Larry up on the plateau. Nigel and Adrian are doing their third RASA together and as I write they are the oldest brother pairing to finish both RASA and the Cape Epic. Nigel has racked up a pretty impressive endurance sport CV over the years, with numerous Dusi Canoe Marathons also under the belt. I assume Adrian has done stuff as well, I’ll ask him.
Feedback from the Orchid Man Andy is a pretty emphatic “zero orchids, repeat, zero orchids”, so we are hoping that he expands his interest to other wild flowers. I have sent him some photos that we took this morning to act as a useful guideline. Speaking of which we will be treated to a bank of Hilton daisies when we leave Cloud Mountain around lunch time today so I’ll take a photo or two. The Hilton daisy is a threatened species, Gerbera aurantiaca, and is apparently one of our beautiful but rare and endangered perennial herb species. It flowers from August so our timing is good. I’ve been told they help with hearing so I’ll pick a bunch in case Ted Adam hasn’t received his replacement hearing aid yet. At the very least they will look good sticking out of his helmet. Speaking of Ted, he and his son Shaun are having measured and successful days and so far are doing a day in a day, perfectly in control.
Elsewhere the field has thinned somewhat. The Avidons have had to pull out, Ingrid had a bad fall and her knee is unplayable. Husband Anthony is keeping her company, good man, their two tracker units are no longer necessary. Father and daughter team Ben and Laura de Lange have also called it a day at Masakala, but I am sure they will both be back in future years. The upshot of all these withdrawals is that that there aren’t any R2R riders left in the field, only the runners, so the old fable of the tortoise and hare rears its head again.
The runners, aside from their fruitless search for orchids, are doing just fine and are approaching the 190 km mark, still well on target to make Rhodes in under seven days. They are sending a steady stream of really great photographs along the way and Race Office will publish these in due course.
The honeymoon couple are already in Malegolonyane and I’ll quote Nix here: “we have decided to have a romantic stay (sleeping for the night), at the exotic Malegolonyane”. The more astute readers amongst you would have noted that they seem to be getting to their daily destination quicker and quicker and, once there, are not showing the slightest interest in moving on to the next SS. The universe nods its head in approval. The only thing puzzling me is Ernst Behrens, who has so far stuck with the honeymoon couple. I think I’ll have a quiet chat with him.
John Bowen, foot wound and all, is solidly back on track and well on his way to Masakala. If he manages Rhodes in seven days he will be still be very well placed to move on to his blanket in Wellington.
I’ve had some useful feedback from readers identifying riders who have slept over for the first night at Minerva/The Oaks. Steve Kellerman was one of them, and I’ve forgotten the other (please remind me?), but whoever it was got lost up in the mountains. Steve went on to get his blanket that year. Coincidentally I bumped into Steve down in the Eastern Free State a month back, and I know it will come as a relief to beard admirers worldwide that his splendid red beard is still intact.
Batch 4, who started yesterday, are motoring and enjoying today’s cooler conditions. Looks like they will jump ahead to Masakala by the end of the day. The only thing holding them back is Grant Hill’s wife Saskia who insists on hourly personal updates from her husband. The only solution I can see to this vexing problem is for Saskia to do RASA with Grant next year. I seem to recall suggesting this last year but I’ll keep trying.
From the postal history perspective great excitement in that I think we have found some evidence of a Byrne agency that used to be in an old trading store just outside Byrne. The Buffalo Herders will scout this lead out on our way back through Byrne.
The last batch starts tomorrow, and from then on the FC circus rolls its way across South Africa. It is a privilege to be part of this event and I look forward to sharing it all with you over the next couple of weeks.
Race report #5 10:00 Sunday 10 October 2020
Ntsikeni Nature Reserve
The Buffalo Herders have relocated to Ntsikeni Nature Reserve, arriving around 8pm last night, completing another leg of our armchair version of the Freedom Challenge. It’s a lot different getting here by car, in some (but not many) ways it is a lot easier on a bike, perhaps mainly because one knows the way by bike. Mr Dalu Ngcobo, the caretaker of Ntsikeni Lodge, his wife Gladys and Sibonile Mabuntane the booking officer, greeted us with the usual warm welcome that has meant so much to decades of Freedom Challenge riders.
It is still very cold up here, 3 degrees last night, and wet due to the fine mist. Don’t be fooled into believing this summer’s RASA is all warm weather. There is snow on the top of the Drakensberg. We can report that the food (chicken stew, rice and pumpkin) is still as good as always, as is the fire. Mr Ngobo has been greetings riders since 2006, missing out only on the first two RASAs. A legend of the trail.
We learned last night that we are now in an area that is somewhat of a cultural melting pot of South Africa, where Zulu, Xhosa and Sotho identities are all present. Ntsikeni used to be part of the Eastern Cape but in 2006 they switched back to KZN. Matatiele switched the other way, from KZN to the Eastern Cape, a move that was, to put it mildly, not received with much enthusiasm. Mr Ngcobo and his wife are Zulu, Sibonile is also a Zulu but his ancestors are Swazi, moving here many generations ago.
We also spoke about the reserve itself, which formerly served as communal grazing land until 1978 when it was proclaimed as a reserve by the Department of Forestry and Fisheries. One can only imagine this may not have gone that well with the local community. Forty two years on it is now well established although it took a hammering during the lockdown.
We are amongst the first visitors that have returned since the start of the COVID crisis. There were issues with poaching (bored youngsters with nothing to do) and fences being cut in places to gain access to the grazing. A not inconsiderable herd of cattle is grazing right in front of me as I write this. Notwithstanding this is still a phenomenally beautiful place.
To us the most relevant discussion was the around the importance of this event, the Freedom Challenge, to the local community. We were left in no doubt over the reverence in which this event is held, there being a very clear understanding and appreciation of the link to tourism and local business. Mr Ngcobo explained how it works. As riders leave Centacow and eventually turn left at the stream to start the long climb to the fence at Ntsikeni, word will reach him from people along the way - “there are two coming”, “a mafutha (a big fat guy, like me) is coming” – so that they are ready for us when we arrive. We are in good hands.
Three riders (Janine, Bruce and Eddie) came in last night (actually this morning at 1am) from Batch 4, having started early on Saturday morning in Pietermaritzburg. John and I were awake at that time, and we watched their flickering lights gradually come over the crest before their pinprick headlights showed they had finally crested. It seemed an age before they finally arrived. It was quite special to lie there and watch this, appreciating what they had just been through, 210km in eighteen and a half hours, a proper effort.
Janine, Bruce and Eddie are aiming for Masakala tonight, a much easier day ahead. Janine is aiming to do a 15 day RASA, which would put her in second place on the all-time women’s list, ahead of Ingrid Avidon with only Jennie Dreyer ahead of her, her 2013 time of twelve days six minutes increasingly untouchable. Bruce tells me he started out with aiming just to finish this year. He has one RTW under the belt and he is a little surprised to find himself at Ntsikeni on day one. Perhaps a fifteen day RASA for him as well? Eddie, the last of today’s threesome at Ntsikeni, is a legal guy who has lived in Mauritius for the last ten years. Four years as a parabat have clearly prepared him, together with four RTRs. Another strong rider. Janine and John discovered they are both geologists so they will something to chat about over the next two weeks.
Before I carry on I have some damage control to do. Bruce and Janine are NOT, I repeat NOT a couple. Apparently my uncertainty over their status has had a ripple effect out there. I can only blame my carelessness on the high number of couples (the Avidons, the Honeymooners, Brad and Nix, and the Scoulars) doing this year’s event, eventually everyone starts looking like a couple. I’m even starting to look quite fondly at my wingman John the geologist.
Batch 1 has been decimated. Of eight starters only three are left. Unfortunately John Bowen has withdrawn, his first days have not gone well, in particular the cut on his foot. This event is brutal, that elusive blanket lies tantalizingly beyond the horizon for some of us. The anguished nights after withdrawing, “should I have, shouldn’t I have?” No judgement brother, that is a very nasty looking cut, we have all been there, we choose to put ourselves in the mouth of the dragon and sometimes it spits us out. At least we felt the heat. Respect.
Batch 2 (the Honeymooners and Ernst) were covered in yesterday’s report, they finished so early. I have no idea how they are faring so far today, there are zero communication here at Ntsikeni. I assume Batch 3 made it through to Masakala?
The Payne brothers came through here at Ntsikeni an hour or so back, having set out from Centacow at 3:15 am this morning. They are also aiming for Masakala tonight. I’ve known Nigel for over thirty years, and true to form he can still talk the hind leg off a donkey, even after the tough ride into Ntsikeni. I got to know his brother Adrian a bit better, and not surprisingly he has a similar sporting pedigree to Nigel, filled with multiple Comrades, Dusi, FC, Epic and similar events.
Really nice seeing the affection the two brothers have for each, a gentle reminder to me of how good it would have been to ride this year’s RASA with my brother Gordon. Nigel’s emotional response to hearing of Ingrid’s withdrawal was poignant, and I saw something similar from Adrian when we were remembering an old mutual friend of both brothers who died of a heart attack some years back. Adrian and Nigel will be riding in memory of Garth Naude of Queenstown today.
The last two riders from Batch 4, Mr and Mrs Scoular, arrived here at Ntsikeni shortly before we left. The community back down the hill phoned earlier- “they are on their way”. We saw them yesterday afternoon at Allandale where they were looking good. As we left they were about to eat and take a shower, so the fact that they made it to Centacow is impressive, not many get back on the road after taking a shower at Allandale. It was lovely to briefly catch up with Ian and Dana Waddilove, hosts at Allandale, and reassuring to know that my binoculars and bird book that I left there after 2009 RASA are still being used.
The sharp end of the field started earlier this morning. Six riders, Mike Woolnough, Alex Harris, Arno Crous, Tim James, Charles Mansfield, and Gareth Dewey. I will give them a proper introduction tomorrow. I imagine they will all be aiming for Ntsikeni in a day, if not they probably have erred in starting in the last batch! I am sure Martin Dreyer is keeping a beady eye on their progress, that record of his always eyed as a target. The bonus if it is broken is that Martin will be back next year.
The Byrne postal history foray was indeed successful. We not only found the old trading store where the agency used to be, but also the former postmaster, Roy Fraser, who happened to be standing outside his shuttered trading store. The agency was only open for a few years (early 1990s) so I am hoping to get my hands on a postal cancellation from that period. Philatelists love that kind of stuff.
Of even more interest is the discovery of a family connection that one of this year’s riders, Eddie Stafford (the parabat), has with the area. His ancestors were aboard the ill-fated Minerva ship and eventually settled in the area, at a small outpost called Stafford’s Post. I can almost hear you all shouting “was there a post office at Stafford’s Post?” The answer is I have no idea but we will do whatever we can to find out.
The Orchid Man has responded to the wild flower idea and I have been inundated with exquisite photographs from him. John the geologist has been busy trying to identify these flowers, so far unsuccessfully. Thankfully Mr Ngcobo came to the rescue with his local knowledge and flower book and we have a positive ID for “Ledebouria ovatifolia”. Porcupines eat it and it is also used in traditional medicine to cure diarrhea, flu and backache. Sounds like a rider’s dream drug.
John the geologist has added the flower duties to his geology responsibilities which is not a bad thing given the limited feedback on the geological front. He did mutter something about unique fossilized lizards being found only in Brasil and South Africa, thereby proving the theory of continental drift, but I could be wrong.
I’ve also had a message from Gavin “lays an egg” Horton who reminded me that his 2016 RASA ended in Minerva after tearing a muscle climbing a fence earlier that day. So Steve Kellerman remains the only person so far who has slept there or at the Oaks and still managed to get a blanket.
That’s about enough, the Scoulars are sounding chirpy although they said the mist from Donnybrook to Centacow was hectic, quite a bizarre ride for them. They got in around ten last night. They have decided to stop for the day at Ntsikeni, who can blame them, they have earned the right after their ride of yesterday. Interesting couple, Gary and Jeanette. Three kids, Savannah, Skye and Raine, otherwise referred by them as “the Elements”. Makes sense. Gary was a commercial diver for many years, seems to be a serial entrepreneur these days, currently into simulated sport technology. Jeanette is a graphic designer and also commands the Elements. She goes by the name of “God”.
I don’t think this forum is an appropriate place to bring up sensitive political topics like “Donald Trump is a complete knob” or “sleepy Joe” or anything along those lines. So I won’t be referring to it at all in these reports.
The Buffalo Herders need to set off now, very glad that we have had the privilege of a night at the incomparable Ntsikeni. Thank you to Mr Ngcobo and his team.
Race report #6 14:00 Monday 11 October 2020
The Buffalo Herders overnighted in Matatiele. We are now in the village of Masakala, a few kilometers north, the third of a string of support stations that sit in the so-called tribal lands. Centacow, Ntsikeni, Masakala, Malekgolonyane, Tinana Mission and Vuvu are etched up in the shadows of the Drakensberg. When our domestic workers back in the leafy suburbs of the cities say “I am going home for Xmas”, this is where they go to.
It is difficult to convey in words how special the days are before the climb over Lehana and the drop into Rhodes and the Eastern Cape. It is very different over on that side of the mountain. Here the conversations are frequent, the greetings generous (“where are you going?”). Life at the pace of a bicycle encourages kinship, as opposed to at the pace of a 4X4, which in itself is a stark reminder of different worlds.
I think of the smell of the African evening fire, pungent and unmistakable, you know exactly where you are. The routines of life, the water carriers (either very old, very young or a woman), the taxis, the neatness of the dwellings, the dogs who eye us with us much suspicion as our dogs might react to strangers in the cities, the spaza shops and the shebeens, the soccer fields with excited spectators and impeccably kitted players, the lowing of cattle, the bleating of sheep and goats, seemingly random chickens (who do they belong to?).
I am sure that life here falls in the “difficult” category when measured by traditional quality-of-life indicators, but all I see are thriving communities and a style and pace of life that makes me think whether us city types actually might have it wrong. The Freedom Challenge without this stretch is unthinkable.
Perhaps a little insight into the purpose of the race scribe, the production of the daily report. It is a privilege having the opportunity to do it. These days Freedom Challenge has any number of Facebook, website, Live Tracking and WhatsApp feeds so I need to be careful as to what the relevance of this report is. How can it add to the experience rather than being a mundane repetition? The visual richness is catered for elsewhere, increasingly so given the exquisite photographs that riders and runners (especially) are sending to the Facebook Dot-Watchers page. The intensity of the actual competitiveness of the race is best handled through the live tracking.
My job, and it is evolving as I write and report is to try and offer some insight into the people (riders and runners, support station hosts and the communities around them) and the geography, history and anything else that helps make the overall experience richer for everyone. The Freedom Challenge is way more than just a sporting event and is constantly evolving. From what I observe it is drawing more and more people into its orbit, through a fascination by “watchers” of the extraordinary physical and mental feats by the competitors and an equal interest in everything else that goes around the journey.
I’m looking at the Masakala sign-in/out sheet as I write. Only four riders have yet to go through this support station. The Scoulars, who should be here shortly and who I suspect will move straight on to Malekgolonyane, and Charles Mansfield and Tim James, the latter both starting yesterday and who will not be here by the time we leave. The front three riders were through here earlier this morning. Alex Harris was out by 8:50, Mike Woolnough by 9:06 and Arno Crous by 11:10. It seems that the podium is likely to be made up of those three, but early days yet.
Lots of discussion on one of the WhatsApp groups about sleep strategies, or rather lack-of-sleep strategies. The Munga riders think that seventy two hours without sleep is doable, they should know. General consensus is that at some point a two hour sleep will be required, as much for mental as physical rejuvenation. All I do know is that the boundaries of what we thought possible are being pushed every year. What seemed madness five years ago is now the new norm.
I said yesterday I would briefly introduce the last batch. Alex Harris has three blankets and is a two time winner of the race, and currently holds the fourth fastest time, one of which he achieved during his epic battle with eventual winner Martin Dreyer in 2017. Only Martin has achieved faster times than Alex, something he has done on three occasions. Tim James is a five times winner of the event and is going for his ninth blanket, a record. Mike Woolnough is after his sixth blanket and has been a podium finisher in endurance for quite a number of years. He has a particularly insightful contribution to endurance sport and writes frequently and eloquently on this fabulous sport of ours. Arno Crous is going for his second blanket and is the dark horse of the race, apparently he is in great shape. Charles Mansfield is also after his second blanket.
Many of this year’s riders will be going for noteworthy achievements. Firstly a blanket, which in itself is a massive achievement. Then there are other FC “clubs”, such as the sub 15 days club. I suspect there are a number of riders who are desire membership of that club, including the Payne brothers and Janine Stewart and her two riding companions
Masakala. Two very kind hostesses, Nobulhe (37) and Fundiswa (29) look after the riders. Nobulhe is in her fifth year of Masakala duties, Fundiswa her second. We chatted a bit about their experiences, Nobulhe told me about all the questions from local youth – “who are these people, where are they from?” “how can I also do this thing?” We all have dreams. The two hosts are both single. Nobulhe’s husband is late and she has two young children, a nine year old boy and a six year old daughter. Fundiswa’s five year old son was from a previous relationship. Perhaps one day these youngsters will be in a position to take part in the Freedom Challenge. Our hosts are both Xhosa and they tell me that this area is now only Xhosa and Sotho, we are out of Zulu country by now.
The runners are making good progress. The endless stream of photos they send show them as a very happy bunch, like they have just started. I am sure the truth is that they are hurting like all hell. Their progress is best measured by comparing the percentage of the total distance they have done to the percentage of total time available to them that they have used. Earlier today they had completed 65% of the distance and had only used 57% of the time available. They are on the right side of the equation and looking for finishing inside the seven day limit. Andy has started a new photographic theme “bovine creatures” and has forwarded some classic images for consideration and potential publishing. I am glad he has found something to keep his mind off the pain. Update: as of now the runners have an 8.9% gap, widening the gap from 8 to 8.9%. It’s been a good day (at least it seems so to us). 140kms left in 64 hours, including a little climb up Lehana.
Batch 3 are doing just fine. The Matthews brothers are motoring and on course to be in Rhodes inside three days. Grant Hill and Trevor Maarschalk are doing great as well, probably Vuvu tonight and perhaps through past Rhodes to Courtney World tomorrow, exactly what Grant did last year. Father and son duo Ted and Shaun Adams are looking solid. They are a day behind the 26 day schedule and are looking at Rhodes in seven days, which will leave them ideally placed. We will catch up with them over the next few days.
Gary and Jeannette have just arrived here at Masakala. A quick lunch and then they are off to Malekgolonyane. Jeanette is battling with feet issues but she seems to be managing ok. They tried the new Tim James route into Masakala and thoroughly enjoyed it, the only problem being it cuts out the old Coke stop.
Quick update from the postal history side. Stafford’s Post does indeed have a post office, in fact it still functions. Fabulous news. Aside from post offices we are also keeping an eye out for small town rugby clubs, a barometer perhaps of the state of that sport in our country. Today we popped in to Matatiele Rugby Club. Actually it looked ok, I’ll post some pictures, but it’s heyday of being part of the premier Natal rugby league and playing against Rovers and Collegians are long gone.
Aside from the wildflowers there are other various flora and fauna that riders and runners come across during their journey. Yesterday whilst chatting to the Payne bothers before they left Ntsikeni, we saw a pair of highly endangered wattle cranes fly overhead, the first time I have seen them airborne. Ntsikeni has numerous buck species, including three types of rhebuck (grey, mountain and southern). John the geologist and I saw one of these, a mountain rhebuck on our drive out of Ntsikeni. Gary and Jeanette spotted a porcupine at Politiq Kraal at sunrise this morning.
The support stations of The Oaks, Allandale, Centacow, Ntsikeni, Glen Edward and shortly Masakala are now closed for 2020. Thank you for your support, as always, part of the Freedom Challenge family.
Race report #7 12:00 Tuesday 12 October 2020
The Buffalo Herders left Masakala an hour or two ago. The chickens crowed very early this morning so we were two cups of tea down by 7am. Tim James came in around 8pm last night, we watched him take the short cut across the veld into Masakala, cutting out the extra loop. I have a feeling he didn’t need to look at his maps. Charles Mansfield arrived later, around 10pm, not that we knew it as we were asleep.
I got to know Charles a bit this morning before he left at 6am (Tim left early at 2am). He is a good man, a reflective soul which isn’t that surprising given that a few years back he had to fight and overcome some serious health challenges. Not many survive cancer of the heart. His doctor suggested a life of gentle walks might be in order. Charles suggested otherwise and here he is on his second RASA, trying to beat his time of fifteen days and a bit of 2013, and hopefully joining the elusive sub fifteen day club. So far he is ten hours ahead of his time in that year. A few years back he moved from Johannesburg to Ladybrand in the Free State, where he practices as a wealth manager.
Perhaps he was a forerunner for many of us who are now reevaluating our lives in these strange COVID ridden times. Are we really happy with our lot in life? Is there not perhaps a different model? This Freedom journey gives riders and runners (and Buffalo Herders for that matter) ample time to think about a few things. There is nowhere to hide here, one is looking into the mirror all the time. Who am I?
Small detail that we noticed on a very pleasant stroll around the settlement of Masakala last night (we managed ok, weren’t tired at all, thanks for asking). No public cemeteries in this part of the world. Family members are buried in graves at the bottom of the garden. There were more than a couple of properties which are starting to strain at the seams a bit, might be a problem in future generations.
John the geologist and I practiced our Xhosa salutations – “Mohlo!” to one person and “Mohlwene!” to more than one person. It felt good, we will endeavor to expand our Xhosa vocabulary over the next few days.
The leg from Masakala to Malekgolonyane has some fascinating place names. “Qacha’s Nek”, “Donald’s Drift”, “Jabulani”, “Klein Jonas”, “Springkana”, “Pontseng”, “Gladstone Farm” and lastly the legendary “Queens Mercy”. Each of these names will evoke bitter/sweet memories for cyclists and runners but I wonder what gave rise to those names? I have no doubt this issue has vexed all of you and our research team has been tasked to come up with as many answers as we can. Watch this space.
A quick initial internet scan hasn’t been of much help other than the discovery of a meteorite that fell somewhere near or perhaps even right on Queen’s Mercy. The latter possibility isn’t as scary as it might seem as the order of events was meteorite first, then Queen’s Mercy, thankfully. This meteorite is described as having an “olivine composition”, which personally I find very attractive.
On our drive to Malekgolonyane we passed Gladstone Farm, infamous for some very lost riders over the years, including Mr and Mrs Scoular who only got in at 10:30 last night. I can only imagine that the “for better or worse” vow is getting properly tested. This ride is Jeanette’s 50th birthday present from her husband Gary. Hopefully it isn’t the last.
We met the current owner of Gladstone, Everest, a Xhosa gentleman who has lived for all of his 37 years in the beautiful Gladstone Farm. Everest was locally schooled at the Mariazell mission school and got a degree in politics from the University of the North. His comments on the world of politics were disparaging to say the least, hence his life as a farmer now. Agri Eastern Cape are visiting him tomorrow to help with improving the genetic quality of his herd of sheep. Farming isn’t easy, the Land Bank has been robbed blind so finance is limited. Gladstone Farm is a decent size, 470 hectares. Everest is very familiar with the Freedom Challenge and expressed concern and empathy for some of the challenges that this year’s event has faced.
The wind is absolutely howling. Lehana will be almost unplayable today. I’m sure when we get reception again we will read of all the difficulties everyone surely must be experiencing. We passed Charles Mansfield today just after Queens Mercy and he was virtually crawling, not through lack of effort.
Tim James has just woken up from a power nap and is chatting to us before he sets off. He spoke of a number of new routes that he explored today on his journey from Masakala. I’ll have a good look on the tracker to see what he was talking about but one route involved keeping far right after Queens Mercy, apparently a beautiful ride through a vlei which was full of spoonbills and sacred ibis. John the geologist spoilt this image a bit by mentioning that sacred ibis tastes horrible. I didn’t ask as to how he knows that.
Tim James was messed around at 2 am this morning with a somewhat interesting hide-and-seek with some local cops who spotted his bike lights from afar. There is after all a curfew and even although Tim is carrying an “explanation” letter, a night behind bars would have some impact on his target finishing time of twelve to thirteen days. Fortunately the police searchlights found nothing and Tim survived.
My thoughts today are with the runners. They had a decent night’s sleep last night, which hopefully will see them through to Rhodes. They are still on the right side of the equation, enough time available to do the remaining distance. On Thursday morning John the geologist and I will be waiting at the ruins beyond Tennahead (after perhaps a lekker breakfast) for them to appear at the top of Lehana. That will be a very special moment indeed.
Cindy (Xhosa) and Lerata (Sotho) greeted us at Malekgolonyane. They have hosted the support station for many years. After Charles Mansfield arrives a little later and presumably moves on to Vuvu, this station too will be closed for 2020. Thank you for your service.
On our way through to Mount Fletcher we stopped for a sarmie on the verandah of a very old trading station, Mangoloaneng. To my great delight we discovered there used to be an old postal agency there and the new trading store operator, a delightful fellow from Bangladesh, pointed to the corner where the remnants of the old agency still stood. “Help yourself” he said, so I did. After thanking him and a wistful chat about his difficulties in getting any interest from the locals to play cricket, we moved on.
We took the Rhodes turn 10km or so after Mount Fletcher and are staying for the night at Vrederus, a farm owned by the Naude family, the very same family whose ancestors built Naude’s pass up to and over into Rhodes many years back. Tim James very kindly recommended Vrederus to us when we saw him at Malekgolonyane. Tomorrow morning we will go over this pass, drop into Rhodes and meet up with Chris Fisher. Beyond that I think we will leapfrog ahead to make sure we get to Cambria in time for our Buffalo Herding duties.
Before we leave there are fish to be caught in the large dam here at Vrederus or in the nearby Bell and Luzi rivers. I’m eyeing photos of 4-5kg browns and rainbows and I happened to bring a rod and reel with me, just in case. Pity about the howling wind
Race report #8 10:00 Thursday 15 October 2020
Alpine Swift, Rhodes
The Buffalo Herders moved on from Vrederus of the Naude’s and spent some of the morning on the verandah of the somewhat bizarre Tenahead Hotel, after having climbed the magnificent Naude’s Pass. Bizarre in the sense that when one rounds the corner after passing the derelict houses (apparently once a holiday resort itself) after the Lehana portage, one doesn’t expect an imposing stone hotel right up in the Drakensberg.
There we met up with Mr and Mrs Scoular and father and son duo Ted and Shaun Adams, who we found sunning themselves, looking for all the world like they were skiers after a chilled morning run down the slopes. They told us they had a fabulous climb up Lehana’s Pass, perfect weather, right lines and no wind. They will be stopping at Rhodes which means a rather pleasant afternoon for them, one little bump to negotiate and then downhill all the way to Alpine Swift.
Whilst at Tenahead we bumped into two of the Trail Wives, Sally Wesson and Letitia Purchase who had gathered to greet their darling husbands as they crested Lehana to make their way the last 30 km or so to the finish at Alpine Swift. Joining them was the father of Dean, Rob Barclay. There was much discussion about taking hamburgers up to the ruins for the runners and greeting them with ululations, until it dawned on all of us, myself included, that so doing would break one of the golden rules, outside assistance from family and friends, and disqualification. The family support hastened back to Rhodes el pronto, the problem luckily averted. Brave be the man who would disqualify these incredible runners.
As we sit here at Alpine Swift they are about 10km out from the finish line with a finish due before I end this report. Their four whips lie in front of me. Once we see their lights from afar and they have finished I’ll relay to you later in this report what I sure will be an emotional occasion.
John and I had a very pleasant stay at Vrederus, well worth a repeat visit. I’m afraid to say the fishing was not successful, although certainly not a waste of time. Juan-Marie sent me a photo yesterday evening of a 2.8kg fish caught by a youngster on his honeymoon after we left. I do hope this feat doesn’t inspire him to spend rest of his honeymoon fishing. Reminds of the time I bought my then girlfriend a fishing rod for her 21st birthday. An awkward silence.
The Naudes of Naude’s Nek are an interesting family. Not only did their ancestors build the Naude’s Pass, but they were also responsible for the human figures in the current coat-of-arms of South Africa. The same oupa grootjie who built the pass also extracted a rock panel covered with bushman art from his farm. One could debate whether he should have done this 103 years ago but perhaps if he hadn’t the art would have been lost forever. To quote:
“the figure (in the coat of arms) comes from the Linton panel, a famous panel of rock art now housed and displayed in the South African Museum in Cape Town. In 1917, this panel was removed from the farm of Linton in the Maclear district in the Eastern Cape.
…. (many) years in museum care, protected from the elements, has made the Linton panel one of the best preserved of all pieces of South African rock art. In 1995, the panel featured as one of the premiere attractions in the international exhibition, Africa the Art of a Continent.
........ San rock art is one of the great archaeological wonders of the world - it is a mirror in which reflects the glories of the African past”
There you have it, a bonus nugget in today’s report. Of more intrigue is that the Bokkie (the eland) that represents the Freedom Challenge emblem is also meant to come from the Lipton Panel. This has been the legend according to Dave Waddilove, the founder of the race, but there seems to be uncertainty about this. Don’t worry, the beloved Bokkie isn’t going anywhere, but our research team will dig deeper and report back.
The Naudes were gracious hosts, perfectly happy taking us through their family albums and history, including the original title deeds for their farms, a reminder from the attached Queen Victoria revenue stamps that Rhodes was very much part of the Cape Colony back in the late 19th century. Juan-Marie told us about an old post office that used to sit on their property, long since derelict. The old mailboxes from now sit in her lounge at Vrederus.
Alpine Swift is in its second year as a Freedom Challenge support station. Hilton, the owner, has developed a hugely impressive sporting facility which targets both trail running and mountain biking events (such as the Heaven and Hell trail 100 miler) and hosts elite athletes for high altitude training, similar to the facility at Dullstroom. Casual visitors are also welcome.
Hilton also enjoys his history and we compared notes. He has pointed me in the direction of Stephanus Naude of Dunley Farm, this is after all Naude world, and world class fly fisherman and the original developer of Tenahead, Fred Steinberg. They are both locals who will have plenty to share about the fascinating history of this rugged and beautiful area.
I don’t think we will manage all of this before we head down the trail but ammo perhaps for a return trip when Race to Cradock starts in a few weeks in November. Likewise for the visit to the Naude family graves which lie 8km back up the valley.
The runners have finally made it to the finish line. It was very special to be part of the welcoming group to a team of four that can be very proud of themselves. FC Facebook and other feeds will do better justice to the emotion of the occasion. 480km in 6 days and 16 hours or so, a better time than many riders who have completed Race to Rhodes. Let that sink in for a while. John the geologist and I quickly left the runners and their families to their own celebrations, very much a time for private and I am sure emotional reunions and trail recollections. We will catch up with them this morning before finally issuing yesterday’s report.
On that note my belated apologies for getting the dates and days a tad mixed up in my previous reports. I’ve consistently (at least it was that) had the right day but the wrong date. Today this all changes, it is indeed Thursday 15 October 2020. My thanks to Ray Sephton (blanket holder) of Barclay East for gently helping me out here. I have an FC cap for Ray which I will be dropping off, probably today, we aren’t far from Barclay East.
Another task of some intrigue has been suggested by blanket holder Gavin Robinson. On a previous FC journey he spotted two lone graves on the portage down from Kappokkraal to the Italian artist’s house on the way to Slaapkranz. Rumor has it these graves could belong to two British soldiers from the Boer war, such graves having been lost in the mists of time. If we manage to speak to Gavin today and get some idea of where he saw these graves, John the geologist and I might well go an adventure, like Paddington Bear from Peru.
Yesterday we met the official FC videographer, Andrew Muckart, who has been filming the event for the last week. The idea is for a short but poignant film to be made that captures the essence of the event. I understand Mike Woolnough and Tim James are the stars (“through the eyes of’), which makes sense given their history with the race. Of interest is that Andrew the videographer is the nephew of Dave Waddilove, the founder of the race.
The runners have just arrived for breakfast. Andy walked in first, chirpy as always “I feel fabulous”. The others are ambling in, clearly and justifiably very pleased with themselves. All the runners are chilling here at Alpine Swift for a day, most only leaving tomorrow. Andy and his wife Sally are moving on to Prince Albert, where they will no doubt encounter the riders of the both RASA and the about-to-start and inaugural Race to Paarl. Which begs a thought. I wonder if the runners have considered running other FC segments. Race to Cradock? Perhaps the whole of RASA?
I’ve just bounced this off them and they don’t look too happy with me, although I can see Andy is looking thoughtful. I wonder where Chris Fisher’s thoughts are, perhaps this achievement heralds a whole new facet of the Freedom Challenge. Personally I hope it does. Freedom Riders and Freedom Runners, tastes just right, as Goldilocks once said.
Orchid Man Andy and John the geologist have just connected. Our imminent departure is no longer imminent, they are yacking away and I sense this could be a long day. I’m very impressed by the quality of their discourse, so much so I am seriously considering promoting John the geologist to John the Geologist, inspired by John the Baptist’s promotion of yesteryear.
The stations of Vuvu and Rhodes are now closed for 2020. Once again, thank you for your service.
Race report #9 12:00 Sunday 18 October 2020
The Buffalo Herders are doing what Buffalo Herders do best, herding buffalo. Which means we are finally in Cambria. The race report has taken a bit of a back seat the last two days. We have had to leap forward from Slaapkrantz to Cambria, picking up Janine Stewart (who has withdrawn, more of that later) and fetching a new rear wheel for Luke Matthews along the way. All this whilst trying to make sure that we got to the gate at Cambria in time for Alex Harris to make the 13:00 bus (single seater) for the Baviaanskloof. No time for report writing but we are back in the saddle, so to speak.
The history stuff can wait until later. It’s time to take stock of the bigger picture, what is happening with the riders and what is at stake in this year’s race. Let’s start with the front end of the field. Alex Harris is on course to firstly win the race, secondly to break Martin Dreyer’s record and thirdly to become the first person to break 10 days for the event. The win, barring catastrophe is almost certain, Martin’s record is under threat, Alex is behind but not by much as he left Willowmore this morning. Under 10 days? This is the one to watch.
This begs the question about records being set in a year when RASA is held in the summer as opposed to winter. We had this debate in an earlier report. From where I sit this debate, albeit very interesting, is moot. If records are broken, then they are broken. It is 2150km regardless, there are advantages and disadvantages (watching Alex go through the Baviaans in 35 degrees plus yesterday was sobering) and if new times are set then bring it on for those to be challenged in 2021. Queue heated discussion on the various WhatsApp groups, that’s ok, nothing will change that! Mike Woolnough has just arrived here at Cambria and his comment is that the pros and cons just about even themselves out, barring perhaps Steteynskloof, where the extra daylight hours could be a distinct advantage.
The rest of the podium seems to be sewn up between Mike Woolnough and Bruce Biccard, in that order. Mike’s best time in RASA is 12 days and 16 hours. He is surely on track to better that given that he is a day ahead of his 12 day race schedule. This is Bruce’s first RASA and a podium finish would be a wonderful achievement, as will membership of the sub-15 day club. I do note however, that as I write Bruce seems to be getting full value out in the Osseberg. He better get a move-on if he wants that podium finish.
Which brings me to other riders who are aiming to join the sub-15 day club. Nigel and Adrian Payne, Luke Matthews (brother Rowan is already a member) and possibly Grant Hill and Trevor Maarschalk, although the latter two will have to really push on to make it. Grant will certainly better his best time of last year.
The other riders to watch are at the opposite end of the field. Father and son combination Ted and Shaun Adams are riding consistently but are a day behind a 26 day schedule. I’ll remind you that if Ted gets his blanket he will become the oldest RASA finisher at 71 years. The heat wave we are experiencing the last few days will not be helping matters but it is still game on for Ted and Shaun.
I haven’t mentioned the Honeymoon couple, Brad and Nix. They still look very happy, at least they did at Elandsberg where we had to pick up Luke Matthew’s bike and take it through to the new (old) stop at Fietskraal. They are still together with Ernst Behrens. Ernst is from Kroondal, a little place near Rustenburg. I know all about Kroondal because I have a 1905 postcard with a Kroondal cancellation on it. Turns out that this postcard was cancelled in the post office that sits inside the trading store that was (and still is) run by Ernst’s family. Ernst comes from German stock and the original Behrens established the trading store in Kroondal in the 1860s. Ernst is the fifth or sixth generation to own and run the business. There is still a thriving German community at Kroondal, although Ernst wistfully commented that there will come a day when that will no longer be the case.
Gary and Jeanette Scoular are exactly on a 26 day schedule, in fact they were ahead of schedule, but Mrs Scoular is riding in extreme discomfort and each day, for her, is survival. Joyce and Andre Buys, the gracious hosts of Slaapkrantz, fashioned a stylish new sheepskin saddle cover for Jeanette so we can only hope this helps ease the pain. If anyone can get their hands on some Lucas pawpaw ointment (helping sore backsides since 1911) please let me know. If it worked for The Man Who Cycled The World, Mark Beaumont from Scotland, it should work for Jeanette.
I guess that is it for the race situation, other than for Arno Crous and Tim James. Tim seems to be having a slightly more sociable RASA this year. I have seen images of him swimming in local dams and kuiering with old friends along the route, but I have little doubt that he will nevertheless still finish in 14 days or so. Actually he has earned the right to do what he wants, five wins and this being his ninth blanket ride. He is on a single speed, a 34x16 ratio (madness according to Mike Woolnough, the ratio that is, not the fact that it is single speed).
Arno is battling with Shermer’s Neck, a condition that we seem to be experiencing more in endurance cycling. One no longer is able to hold one’s head up (two’s head isn’t affected), so riders have to resort to duct-taping their helmets (and therefore their heads) to their backpacks, just to hold the head up. It’s horrible, but Arno has kept going, seemingly and admirably determined to get his blanket, even although his aspirations for a podium or even a win are dashed.
There we have it. 19 riders left out the original 22 RASA riders that started in Pietermaritzburg. The withdrawals are John Bowen, Charles Mansfield and Janine Stewart. John we have reported on in earlier reports. Charles had to unfortunately withdraw at Moordenaarspoort due to chronic neck pain. Very sad as he was well on for a sub 15 day ride. Similarly Janine withdrew at Romansfontein with very bad tendonitis. She has been made an honorary member of the Buffalo Herders and is here with us in Cambria helping with our duties. As she is a geologist with Rio Tinto (and about to move with them to London) she and John the Geologist have hit it off and have spent the entire day talking about whatever it is geologists talk about. This afternoon the two of them will be herding buffalo together, escorting Mike Woolnough as he goes through the Baviaans. He is due here shortly and will be leaving in today’s 13:00 bus (again a single seater). The weather is much kinder today, overcast and no longer the furnace of yesterday.
We (the Buffalo Herders) had a lovely stay at Slaapkranz (SS7), one of the longest standing support stations on Freedom Challenge. Right from the first race I think. This is the farm of Joyce and Andre Buys and their two children, one of whom, Michelle, is currently at home busy with her remote learning (not by choice) 2nd year of an industrial psychology degree at Stellenbosch University. We do indeed live in a very different world these days, what price studying up in the exquisite valley where Slaapkrantz sits? Andre teaches in Aliwal North during the week and Joyce is a lawyer in Barkley East, commuting the 42km drive each day, there and back. A beautiful river flows through their property and one fingerling trout is recovering from having been subjected to an out-of-water experience from me.
Joyce is and always has been a wonderful hostess. I’m sure many riders have enjoyed chatting with her, she is open, curious and welcoming and a stay at Slaapkranz is always a highlight of any Freedom Challenge ride. One topic of discussion was the mystery of two British soldiers that lie somewhere on the farm where the Italian artist’s farmhouse is. Actually it’s the van der Merwe’s farm, always has been, the Italian artist’s role was to paint mural scenes in many of the rooms of the long abandoned farmhouse. Quite beautiful, as is the old ox-wagon that sit in a forlorn shed outside. The shed was built around the ox-wagon, so I am told.
Gavin Robinson, blanket holder, informed us of two graves that he saw whilst descending from Kappokkraal. Chatting to Joyce and her neighbor Charmaine, it is common knowledge that there are indeed two British soldier graves. The legend goes that they were buried next to the river, an unwise choice as years ago, hopefully shortly after they were buried, the farmer noted that one of the farm workers was proudly sporting a new pair of boots. When questioned as to where he got the boots from, he pointed out the graves, which recent rains and a rising river had exposed. The soldiers were reburied (according to legend) next to the van der Merwe family graves, although there is uncertainty about this) and that is where we currently stand. Where exactly are they buried? It would be wonderful if Gavin Robinson has discovered some long lost graves. We are due to return to Slaapkrantz in time and go and have a look.
There is a new support station, Fietskraal. Actually Fietskraal is the old De Doorns, years ago a support station that was run by the mother of the current owner. The Buffalo Herders stayed there last night after delivering the replacement wheel to Luke Matthews. The young couple that run the support station, Michael and his wife Charne have pulled out all stops. Michael is a qualified Chartered Accountant, has ticked that box and is now doing what he actually wants to do, and Charne is busy with her Master’s in Medical Law. Talented young couple and we look forward to a long relationship with Fietskraal in coming years.
The support stations of Slaapkrantz, Moordenaarspoort, Kranzkop and Brosterlea are now closed for RASA 2020. Once again, thank you for your service.
Race report #10 15:00 Monday 19 October 2020
The farm dogs at Kudu Kaya (SS14) are an endearing collective. The chocolate lab, the Australian cattle dog, a Jack Russel and a border collie visit us at various times of the day. I cannot explain why one of those breeds is capitalized and the rest are not. It seems unfair but there again Jack Russels are a breed apart. The farm dogs do have names but I’ve forgotten them. Buffalo Herders get lonely at times and they provide us with some welcome company. The cattle dog bites a bit, in a friendly way, but blood is drawn nevertheless. We don’t really mind and you don’t want to get into an argument with a cattle dog, so we let him nibble. Yesterday he ate the leather sheath of a vintage Masai machete I lug around with me. How he didn’t cut himself to pieces on the razor sharp blade I have no idea.
Bruce and Arno have just arrived after a traumatic night in the Osseberg, both absolutely shattered. They have that thousand yard stare that only those who have just been through a properly traumatic experience can have. Arno’s neck is unplayable, he is trying everything he can to prop his neck up and alleviate the pain. He is unsure whether he will make it to Diemersfontein. This is not a man who easily accepts a DNF. In a lifetime of endurance sports he has only one DNF, the 2016 Attakwas which he left in an ambulance after a high speed downhill crash. His decision at Cambria is to leave tomorrow morning, thereby giving himself a day to try and recover. In the meantime Race Office is trying to organize some sort of support mechanism to prop up his neck. Pool noodles are currently under consideration.
Bruce was most apologetic when he arrived, worried that he has inconvenienced everyone. He was even concerned as to whether he will be allowed to continue, fearing that he may have triggered a disqualification. Chris Fisher, who has joined us at Cambria for the night, assured him that everything is fine and he is still a contender for the podium. Bruce cheered up a bit at that news and decided to catch today’s 13:00 bus. Once he does that his nightmare day and night in the Osseberg will be pushed to the recesses of his memory, only to re-emerge in the wee hours of the morning in years to come, “the horror, the horror”. Both Arno and Bruce are quiet and considerate fellows, clearly each with a resoluteness and discipline that is characteristic of all the front-runners that we have seen come through.
Alex Harris and Mike Woolnough are the two riders that have come and gone through Cambria. Mike was exactly one day behind Alex when he left the gate into the Baviaans. In normal Mike style he was calmness personified in his brief stay at Kudu Kaya, cracking jokes and quite happy to chat away with the Buffalo Herders. He had found one of Alex Harris’s water bottles in the reeds, noting with interest that Alex has taken on board Mike’s idea of wrapping water bottles in canvas. Those of us of a certain age will remember our fathers hanging wet canvas water containers off their car radiators before setting off on a long car trip. The pleasure of that ice cold water in the burning Karoo is etched in our memories.
The Baviaanskloof is a World Heritage Site. John the Geologist, before we set off on our first Buffalo herding trip escorting Alex Harris, was a bit puzzled as to why this was so but once we had finished our first trip he was convinced. The majesty of the remote beauty of the Baviaanskloof is difficult to describe so I am not even going to attempt to put into words what should, at least once in our lives, be personally experienced. If you are leery of narrow “roads” hanging over yawning 200m vertical drops then this isn’t the place for you. Buffalo Herders are fearless except for one thing. Buffalos. Actually, we are ok with buffalos. What we fear is oncoming traffic and the possibility that one has to be the vehicle passing on the side of the vertical drop. This happens every now and then.
The access that we have to cycle through the Baviaanskloof is a privilege, not a right. A Freedom Challenge without the Baviaanskloof is as unthinkable as losing the stretch through the tribal lands of KZN and East Griqualand. Our Freedom Challenge community understands this and every participant and others around the event, including Buffalo Herders, need to ensure our relationships with Park representatives are optimal. Our main interface is with the officials at the two ends of the park, the boom on the Cambria side and the boom on the Dam se Drif side. Over the next couple of days we will get to know these people a bit better and will share this with you. They are after all part of the Freedom Challenge family.
The Buffalo Herders this year are volunteers. We do this because we, like many others, have a deep love of this event. This is one small way we can contribute to the sustainability of the Freedom Challenge. We have had a blast and wonder whether we couldn’t perhaps build on this model, expanding this opportunity to other volunteers, most likely (but not necessarily) blanket holders that perhaps cannot ride that year or any year, for whatever reason. We could turn Cambria into an “Order of the Buffalo Herders” highlight for riders, putting on a lekker braai for them as they come out of the grip of Mordor. It would be a great opportunity for the Freedom Challenge community to put something back into the event, other than hard cash, and have fun in so doing. I’d welcome comments on this idea.
WiFi and mobile communications are a constant challenge. At Kudu Kaya we hover on the outer range limit of the connectivity provided by our hosts. There is a large tree down the hill where there is a better signal. We can choose from five or six different WiFi connections. The best one is “Huis na Pomp”. I haven’t dared ask as to the origins of this name but it does make sense that it works the best.
John the Geologist and I have some time to kill during the day, in between herding buffalo. John has a Kindle and has endless choice as to what he can read. I have a box of van Riebeeck Society reprints of original journals and writings of early South African travelers, guys like Bains and Burchell. For some obscure reason I am reading about the Norwegian Missionaries in Natal and Zululand between 1844 and 1900. Reminds me that throughout the Freedom Challenge we see evidence of missionaries from various faiths, stunning monasteries that in most cases are still operating, many having been around for 150 years or more. Tinana, Mariazell, St Augustine at Centacow and the Maria Linden mission at Malekgolonyane are examples. There are many more. One could debate the impact these missions have had, but there is little doubt that they have made a positive contribution to the education of the people that they have endeavored to convert.
Janine left us this morning, thereby ending her short stint as a Buffalo Herder. She heads back to Durban to join her family in mourning the loss of her father. In a way she is mourning the loss of her Freedom Challenge family as well, as she is shortly moving to London. I could see what this event means to her and it was great having with us for a few days, time in which she could say goodbye.
From a race perspective Alex Harris is still on track for all three of his objectives, the win, the record and the first under 10 days. Mike Woolnough is having a superb ride and has second place and a personal PB pretty much locked up. I’ll update on the rest tomorrow, other than Eddie Stafford, who I failed to mention yesterday, my humblest apologies. It is Eddie’s birthday today and he is due any moment in at Cambria where he will join his buddy Arno Crous. They will ride through the Baviaanskloof together at 06:00 tomorrow morning. We are expecting a relatively full house at Cambria tonight with Tim James, Grant Hill and Trevor Maarschalk expected later tonight. They will be joining Arno and Eddie tomorrow.
The support station of Romansfontein is closed for 2020. Many thanks, once again.
Race report #11 12:00 Wednesday 21 October 2020
Yesterday’s report was held back until today in anticipation of Alex Harris getting to Diemersfontein last night. Get there he did, in the early hours of this morning, albeit there were some late scares in Stettynskloof and on the descent into Diemersfontein. Suffice to say the route into Diemersfontein was interesting, to say the least. Not many people cross the finish line from the wrong direction. Robbie McIntosh is apparently the only other rider to manage this.
I’ve just watched a video of Alex’s interview at the finish line, “I’ve been planning this for ten years” and “this year’s race went perfectly until 5pm yesterday”. The man operated on the extremes of sleep deprivation during the entire event and especially during the last four days or so.
In summary Alex achieved everything he had targeted. The win, the record and the first person under 10 days with a final time of 9 days, 22 hours and 10 minutes or so. Regardless of the many discussions on winter versus summer RASAs, this is a phenomenal achievement and deserves our collective utmost respect.
Elsewhere the next seven contenders are bunching up thick and fast in the run in to the finish. The race for other two spots in the podium is between Mike Woolnough (who surely has second place locked up), Tim James and Bruce Biccard. Tim is, as we speak, behind Bruce but he did start a day later so is ahead on elapsed time. The two Matthews brothers should easily come in under 15 days and Grant Hill and Trever Maarschalk are still in with an outside chance of doing the same.
Here at Cambria we are escorting The Honeymoon Couple, Brad and Nick, together with Ernst Behrens, through the Baviaans. At least John the Geologist is doing the escorting today, I’m busy with the report. This trio are going well and aim to get in around 20 days. The Payne brothers, who have been experiencing some mechanical issues, in particular a properly shredded (split beading) tyre, are due in later this morning for the 13:00 bus. They seem to be on target for 17 or 18 days or thereabouts. Actually I’ve just looked at the tracker and I’m not entirely convinced that the Paynes will make the 13:00 bus, we may only be leaving tomorrow. Slow progress through the Osseberg.
At the back of the field father and son team Ted and Shaun Adams and Mr and Mrs Scoular are still very much on target for their blankets. Unfortunately the Buffalo Herders will not be escorting them through the Baviaans as we are moving on to catch up with the rest of the field. Nigel and Adrian Payne will be the last pair we escort in this year’s Baviaans. Temporary buffalo herders (lower case as they are only temporary) will be escorting the last four riders.
I haven’t referred yet to the concurrent Race to Paarl that started late last week. This is the first edition of that race, and it is now possible to do the entire Freedom Challenge route in sections, Race to Rhodes, Race to Cradock, Race to Willowmore and now the Race to Paarl. There are many hardened FC old hands who are riding this year’s inaugral vent, including Chris Morris and the Fat Farmers, who look anything but fat to me. Their moniker has changed to “the Fantastic Farmers” in recognition of this.
In addition to the “segment “ FC events Chris Fisher has put together another inaugural event, the Freedom Circuit. This is a KZN based ride, a circular route that incorporates much of the Race to Rhodes route, starting and finishing at the same place. This will be the first Freedom Event that allows the use of GPS units. This event takes place in April next year for the first time and a full field is anticipated.
The use of GPS marks an interesting deviation. I’ve had some conversations on this with a number of the seasoned riders as they have come through Cambria, and the topic begs a wider discussion on the future of events such as the Freedom Challenge. There is little doubt that there is a global surge in the number of Freedom Challenge style events, unsupported extreme endurance cycling races. The Tour Divide event on the west coast of the US has been around for many years, as has the Transcontinental Race across Europe.
The recent establishment of the Atlas Mountain Race event in Morocco (completed by Mike Woolnough last year) and the Silk Road Mountain Race in Central Asia (also a number of South African finishers including blanket holder Tim van Coller) illustrates the significant growth in events of this nature. We will see more and more cyclists showing an interest, that is clearly the global trend. Nelson Trees, a world class endurance cyclist, is one of the drivers behind this growth (the Silk Road event is his). He comments as follows:
“I’ve definitely seen rapid growth in the unsupported racing scene, and there are more and more races appearing all the time. From a racer’s perspective, it’s also definitely more competitive, as races are attracting stronger riders, people have more experience, and train harder. There’s also less variation in the equipment used by racers as the best solutions are becoming more universally adopted, and there’s generally more information on how to prepare for events.
I think we’re at the beginning of the evolution of this scene. I hope that the grassroots growth that we’ve seen so far continues, but I feel that it’s inevitable that it will become more commercial. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, as it’ll mean more events, and in some cases better organised events, but there’s a real risk that as this happens it’ll lose much of the appeal that these races had in their original simplicity’
What does this mean for the Freedom Challenge? The good news is that demand for this type of event is clearly on the up. The question is whether or not the Freedom Challenge wishes to hold its own with other similar global events on the global circuit. Although we have had some overseas competitors I can’t recall anyone who was even remotely contending for line honors. What would FC need to do to hold its place on the global circuit? Does it actually want to?
Of interest is that the other events are all GPS enabled, obviously unlike the Freedom Challenge as it currently stands, barring this new Freedom Circuit event. One other potential difference is that of prize money, if any, for the Silk Road and Atlas Mountain Race. My guess is probably nothing, similar to the Freedom Challenge, but I’ll confirm this one way or the other.
I am well aware that the majority of the current FC community, myself included, would not be in favour of GPSs being used in the Freedom Challenge. Much of the mystique and appeal of the event lies in the legendary mishaps that lost competitors endure whilst paying their school fees on (or off!) the route. However, the reality is that for the Freedom Challenge to be sustainable on a commercial basis for decades to come, these matters (e.g. GPS, sponsorship, prize money) cannot just be wished away without careful consideration.. I suspect the thinking in the establishment of the Freedom Circuit is to cater for some of these pressures by providing an alternative that is more aligned to the GPS enabled events overseas.
I must point out that the above ramblings are my personal views or observations, from a privileged position as a volunteer scribe and Buffalo Herder through which I have been privy to some of the realities of putting on an event like this. Personally I would be mortified if the event moved away from its current format, a blanket for finishing and no GPS, just to mention two of the many “holy grails” of the Freedom Challenge. As Nelson Trees said, we would risk losing much of the appeal the race had in its original simplicity. Food for thought going forward though.
John the Geologist has just returned from a stint of buffalo herding (not that we have seen a single one yet) and he looks a happy man. We have one more voyage over the mountains and 2020 buffalo herding will be done for the two of us. This is always sad, Cambria is a very special place. We have enjoyed trying to make this support station a pleasant stop for riders and will give it horns to get the volunteer Buffalo Herder wider fraternity (as discussed in a previous report) to make this stop an even more memorable one in future years.
The support stations further back in the trail are closing thick and fast, only four people left on the other side of the Osseberg. We say goodbye to Hofmeyer and Elandsberg. Thank you for your service. The menagerie at Elandsberg continues to grow exponentially. We popped in there to pick up Luke Matthew’s bike and can report that the current African Grey Parrot population is over 100 birds. Fledgling African Greys are not very attractive, just saying.
Race report #12 09:00 Friday 22 October 2020
Dam se Drif (Golden Crust)
The Buffalo Herders are through the Baviaanskloof and have bedded down for the night at the oasis of Dam se Drif, home of Hestelle and Rune Jansen van Rensburg. Dam se Drif is actually Golden Crust as those of you who have read the race narrative are well aware, at least I hope you are. Hestelle showed me the original title deeds of the property and sure enough we are indeed on a farm called Golden Crust. European settlers came very early into the Baviaans (Golden Crust farmhouse was built in 1860) and I can only imagine the first loaf of baked bread was a great success.
From henceforth this legendary support station shall be known to Freedom Riders as Golden Crust (formerly Dam se Drif). The parenthesis and clarification are important because riders (and maybe future runners) may get confused. The sign board will continue to say Dam se Drif but that is the owner’s prerogative, just ignore it. Actually don’t ignore it, ignore the first sign for Dam se Drif as the real (but not the support station) Dam se Drif is 2km down the road back towards the Baviaanskloof, a fact that a number of riders from the past have discovered to their cost. I’m glad I could clear this up for everyone, I’ll close the door on my way out.
Remarkably Alex Harris himself, a few days ago, went to the wrong Dam se Drif. He hadn’t slept for three days. His detour cost him 2km. Hestelle said Alex was hallucinating when he eventually came through to sleep for four hours or so. He told Rune and Hestelle that the stretch from here to Prince Albert is his nemesis, the part of Freedom Challenge that he fears the most. I think he has put that one to bed (other than the Dam se Drif detour of course).
I was last here in 2016 in my previous stint as a Buffalo Herder. In that year I looked forward to my coffee, lunch and chat with Hestelle and her family before I turned around to chug back to Cambria to await the next escort. Due to a somewhat shortened buffalo escort distance this year, this is the first time I have had a chance to catch up with her, Rune and the kids. The three daughters have grown up, one is now at university. Life is hectic at Dam se Drif. COVID means a full house all the time as the kids are studying from home. Trying to manage dusty Freedom riders in amongst all of this can be challenging in these stressful times and our appreciation must go to Hestelle and her family for the support they have given us from the inception of the Freedom Challenge. I can only hope she knows how much we all look forward to our stop at Dam se Drif.
The postal history fans amongst you have been ignored for a while, not for lack of any effort on my part. No longer. I discovered to my delight that there are (or were) at least four postal agencies in the Baviaanskloof. Aside from the post office at Willowmore there were agencies at Studtis, Lulet, Zandvlakte and remarkably at Smitskraal, deep in the Baviaanskloof Reserve I had a lovely chat in her kitchen last evening with the 84 year old owner, Aleta Smith, of the farm Kleinpoort. Kleinpoort lies adjacent to Dam se Drif (Golden Crust) and is where the still operating postal agency Lulet is situated. Lulet is a combination of the names of Aleta and her late husband Lucas (not to be confused with the Lucas of Lucas Paw Paw Ointment). The postal code is 6462 in case any of you wish to send a letter to Aleta (get it, “a letter to Aleta”, hahaha). In fact please could you do that, send a postcard or letter to her, she is a bit lonely and could do with the contact. Mention the Freedom Challenge.
Aleta Smith Lulet 6462
It will get to her I promise. It’s her post office after all.
Smitskraal used to be a thriving community of nine families, all with the surname Smit. There was a school and obviously a post office. Today it is a picnic site, normally the first break that riders take after leaving Cambria. Not a sign of a building anywhere. Smitskraal is where a few days back we found a birthday cake sitting on a picnic table. As it was Eddie Stafford’s birthday we flattened it. The world works in mysterious ways.
On the race front much drama with Mike Woolnough and his attempt to break 12 days and become one of top ten fastest riders of all-time. He seemed well on track to achieve this until the pits of Stettynskloof claimed another victim. Mike spent last night in Stettyns and as I write is making his way up to Diemersfontein. No sub 12 day but a great ride nevertheless. Tim James is still on course to break the single speed record held by Glen Harrison and will achieve this if he finishes before mid-morning tomorrow. Barring a similar mishap as happened to Mike he should break the record. The Matthews brothers will go under 15 days if they finish by 6am tomorrow morning. Looks tight but they aren’t scared. We escorted the Payne brothers through the Baviaanskloof yesterday. Nigel has nursed a twisted ankle for some time now so they are managing themselves to the finish and having a great time in so doing.
Elsewhere there has been plenty of bike breakdown drama. Grant Hill had wheel and tyre issues as has Ernst Behrens. They seem to be mobile again. The last four riders are preparing to make their way through the Baviaanskloof. If Ted and Shaun Adams make it to Cambria from Hadley today they will enter the Baviaanskloof proper tomorrow. That will give the duo ten days to get to Diemersfontein to get in within the 26 day limit. A schedule of Dam se Drif, Willowmore, Prince Albert, Gamkaskloof, Rouxpos, Montagu, McGregor, Trouthaven and finally Diemersfontein should see them in with a day to spare. Looks very achievable and this would be a new record. Ted will be the oldest man to finish the Freedom Challenge at 71 years. Mr and Mrs Scoular are steadily eating up the kilometers as well and are still well within sight of a blanket. I hope Jeanette’s medical challenges have been resolved. If not I have left a half full jar of Lucas Paw Paw Ointment on top of their boxes at Cambria. I eventually found it somewhere in my car and I am sure it will do the trick, if required.
The Baviaanskloof has seen much drama over the last centuries. The event which lingers longest in memories is the 1916 flood which was of such magnitude that lives were lost (look out for the Campbell Memorial the next time you drive through) and it took years for the valley to recover. My guess is that current farmers would welcome a flood given the severity of the drought that they have had to endure for nearly seven years now. We have noticed it on the Freedom Challenge itself. In the past the many river crossings (upwards of 20) used to be in knee high water and a highlight of the first day through the Baviaanskloof. In the last few years there are very few spots where you get your feet wet. There is also far less game. The valleys used to teem with kudu, bushbuck, warthog, buffalo and hammafors. Of the estimated herd of 600 buffalo this year we did not see even one. The drought is taking its toll. I can hear you all wondering what a hammafor is. I will tell you. The answer to the question “what is a hammafor?” is “hitting nails in”. It’s a Dad joke. My kids have just disowned me, again. I’ll close the door on my way out, again.
I am sitting in the dining room (after having come back through the front door) of the Dam se Drif farmhouse at the old wooden dining room table that so many Freedom Challenge riders know so well. Hestelle and two of her helpers (including ou Jan, who is a colored woman, long story that she is called Jan) are helping her mince the last of the beef from a cow that was slaughtered yesterday. She and Rune were up until late last night cutting up meat that must be done before the heat of the day. It will be 37 degrees in the Kloof, an absolute furnace. Good luck to the Race to Willowmore riders later this year in November, it will be even hotter then.
We say goodbye to the support stations of Fietskraal (great return to Freedom Challenge, you have set a high standard!), Gegun, Toekomst and Kleinpoort for 2020. Thank you for your service.
Race report #13 10:00 Tuesday 27 October 2020
RASA has the habit of a slow and laborious start, or so it seems, and then once everyone is on the course it accelerates ever faster. Towards the end riders seem hell bent on getting to Diemersfontein as quickly as they possibly can. Doubles become triples. It is Tuesday today and by Friday or Saturday, unless someone suddenly switches to tourist mode, the 2020 RASA will be over.
Ten riders have already finished. There are nine people left on the course. The Honeymoon Couple Brad and Nix, together with Ernst Behrens should finish today (a 20 day + ride), probably alongside the Payne brothers (a 17 day+ ride). Ted and Shaun Adams (approx 22+ days) and Mr and Mrs Scoular (approx 20+ days) look well set to finish on Thursday or Friday, perhaps a little later. A most unusual Freedom Challenge will have come to an end.
The Buffalo Herders are at the back of the field. We had to do an extra escort through the Baviaans when the back-up buffalo herder could only manage the Saturday and not the Sunday. This worked out fine as we had to loop back to PE to get a new wheel for Ted Adams. Our bonus drive through the Baviaans was unfortunately fruitless again in terms of spotting any buffalo. Not one buffalo seen by us or any of the riders (as far as I am aware) during any of the 2020 RASA traverses. We had an interesting chat with one of the rangers yesterday. The drought has undoubtedly had an effect but he did suggest that poaching is starting to take its toll. A day pass, a rifle, some sharp knives, a bakkie and perhaps porous gate control is all it takes. Bushbuck, kudu and buffalo are all at risk.
One last stop for some WiFi and a cool drink at Dam se Drif. The Jansen van Rensburgs (Hestelle and Rune) were busy with friends over a Sunday (lamb?) potjie (the sheep with a missing leg was still hobbling along, which was a relief), looked lovely and we were tempted to stay but we had a wheel to get to Ted in Willowmore. Sunday night was our second night at The Willows. Good to catch up with El-Anne and Derek, her husband, and great to see how busy the venue was. Harley Davidson bikers, photographers from George and the Freedom Challenge.
El-Anne’s Dad established The Willows. He is now further down the road at Sophie’s Choice (with Sophie I think, who has chosen him) and his daughter and her husband have taken over for some time now. They both went to school at Paarl Gymnasium and, as is the norm, both of their children will do their schooling there as well (one is already there). Makes for some interesting dynamics with getting kids to school, especially during these COVID times.
Electricity was in short supply in Willowmore. The local authority (Dr Beyers Naude) owes Eskom R134m and Eskom have lost their patience and, more importantly, have won a relevant court case which allows them to suspend services. They have now cut supply for non-payment. The i