I doing think a solar charger is of much use. Definitely take a power bank (for backup and load shedding), in general there are adequate charging facilities at the SS's. Racers may use a dynamo hub, but that doesn't make sense if you're doing more than 14 days.

I like the DT Swiss hubs (350's are good value for money IMHO), their star ratchet system is pretty bomb proof and easy to service, their bearings are sealed and are excellent quality. Their rims and spokes are good as well, but there are so many good rims out there rim choice is less of an issue.

Sorry, cutoffs I mentioned (from the 2022 race manual have been updated in the RASA info page)....Rhodes 8days, Groenfontein 13days, Willowmore 18 days, Wellington 26days...I think if you're having to take rest days (without injury/illness intervening) because you're not coping with the average days riding, you're actually less likely to finish in 26 days.....

You certainly could, but not recommended. There are cut offs along the trail at Rhodes (8days) and Hofmeyr (13.5 days) and you must finish in 26days. So some riders may have "enforced" non-riding days (illness, injury or mechanicals requiring repair or replacement parts to be brought in and a time penally to be served). Because of this its not common to have riders taking a specific rest day, just for a "rest", you want to move down the trail as speedily and efficiently as possible so you have some "wiggle room" to prevent a cutoff should an enforced day or 2 off be needed.

I have been using the Bryton 320 GPS computer which has no routes or tracks so is suitable. Is a traditional bar mount which I like. great battery life and can be charges while in use (big pro for racing IMHO) and a nice big screen (old eyes). Unfortunately they aren't in SA anymore so need to be imported.

Essential IMHO. Unless you are an experienced adventure racer and / know the trail go with a rotating board with the A3 (original) or A4 (newer) maps. Chris Fisher has a video on YouTube how to make your own home made rotating board (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQebqQxzwpc&t=11s) which I used for my 1st R2R. But if you want to buy one you cant go wrong with the Miry mopboard available in the Shop.

Shimano XM9’s are bullet proof. They will not fall apart but are heavy. Gortex keeps you warm but sections that get them wet (Umko Crossing, Osseberg and Stettyns) mean they take ages to dry. Not the racers choice. Other shoes I’ve used Pearl Izumi XAlp’s, durable and very suitable for the summer events, but feet will get cold on RASA, boas may be an issue (laces are best IMHO). Shimano MT5’s or any of the MT range also good. Only problem I’ve had was a sole completely delaminating on a one of a pair of Lake MXZ200’s. But I think they have a design flaw requiring a section of sole to be removed to fit cleats, destroying the integrity of the Vibram Sole…so advise against those but not Lakes in general

Typo 100mm suspension fork 😜

My setup includes: 1) Backup light, which is a Blackdiamond Ion. Takes a single AAA Li battery. Tiny. Waterproof and good enough to read maps, narratives and limp along to a SS. 2) Helmet lamp, which is a Lupine Piko. Has a wireless handlebar remote so can switch on during technical descents without taking my hands off the bar. Attached to a 3,5mAh smartcore battery (the bat has some red LED’s that can flash and are a backup rear light in effect. 2100lumens will seem like overkill, and is for touring, but for racing ive found it very useful for night nav to see features you can’t with a lower power light…battery life astounding. Generaly off, but switched on for map / narrative referral (low low power) and technical riding (high power) 3) Handlebar mounted light 2 options. For the shorter races and touring where I’d only need limited or only 2 or 3 nights with no charge, a 2nd Lupine Piko on the barbwith a 6,5 or 13,5 mAh battery. Lupine system is comprehensive. Lupine 2 allows light and odometer to be connected and simultaneously charged/ and or cellphone charge from the battery. Racing RASA would choose my SON Dynamo to Synewave Beacon through a flow through battery (Voltaic). This means load shedding not an issue and can charge odometer, headlamp battery and cell without Eskom, only 700lumen, but more than enough for roads, also has a banana plug connector to keep linens up at low speed. 4) Rear light, Spez USB / Ryder USB chargeable red tail light with backup from Lupine Smartcore Battery LED’s Lupine are expensive, but have had no issues in 4 years untill this R2P ( headlamp Bluetooth connection failed, so sending in for repairs).

Craig. I think most riders do choose a full sus mountain bike for RASA. I personally find a hard tail flat bar with a rigid fork suitable (but do swap out to a 200mm suspension fork on occasion). A suspension fork may make things a bit more comfortable, and help with the rougher trails, but is another piece of equipment that can fail (I do see that Salsa say it can accept up to 100mm travel forks). So my main concern would be the curly bars. I personally wouldn’t choose drop bars or put on aero bars either, but some riders do (I don’t think there is enough smooth gravel to justify aero bars and they get in the way during portages in dense bush, I don’t see any advantage to curly bars as I’m happy with limited hand positions on flats, and feel more in control on technical trails which are common particularly early on). The rigid bike certainly makes things lighter (you will loose count of the number of gates or fences you’ll scale) and this will help with the HAB sections. As long as you can put some nice wide tyres (I see it will accept 2.4 inch 29 inch tyres, I would not go with less than 2.3 personally) you’ll be ok (choose decent tread and sidewalls like a Maxxis Recon with EXO). But rember this is more rugged than the tour divide (which is what this bike was designed for). But if you’re competent on a drop bar bike on technical trails and aren’t concerned with the rigid fork and fatigue ….why not? Roger.